April 2010

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Slow TravelThe wise and sage scribes of Blur once told us that “Modern Life is Rubbish”. Well, I would not go that far, but there are certain aspects of the fast pace of the modern world that people have begun to react against. The Slow Food movement is one and – inspired by the same feelings of “less is more” – the slow revolution has come to travel.

Of course, what people mean by Slow Travel depends…there is no easy manifesto or set of rules. To my mind, Slow Travel means taking time: exploring places in depth, following Jim in his mission to search out the hidden corners, looking beyond the famous tourist sights, and taking the opportunity to really get a sense of the place that you are travelling in. It can also impact on the choice of transport, such as taking the train instead of flying and, even then, catching the slower local locomotive rather than the high speed express.

I can see these ideas influencing the work of the Man in Seat 61, whose website provides wonderful information about long distance train and boat travel, or in the pages of Hidden Europe magazine, which explores the corners of this great continent that you will never see on the pages of newspaper travel supplements or often, even, in the best-selling guidebooks.

Another such place is a fairly new website called Slow Travel Berlin, which has been created with this “less is more” attitude in mind, and the creators seem passionate about promoting an idea of travel to the city that embraces the best elements of the slow movement. Here’s a quote:

“We aim to facilitate any quest to get beneath the skin of the city a little, or discover it at a more leisurely pace. We offer an insider’s view that will doubtless overlap from time to time with other Berlin travel sites, but will ultimately provide a unique and above all reliable resource that gives a broader, deeper perspective. We love this city and we want you to love it too.”

They are slowly (arf!) but surely building up the website, with articles on everything from great cafes to people-watch, to walks and bike routes in the city, as well as profiles and interviews with some interesting locals. Ultimately Slow Travel Berlin looks to be developing into a place that will provide inspiration not only for travellers to the city, but also those of us that live here. Go and check it out.

The link once more, for luck: Slow Travel Berlin

(Our intrepid explorers Jim and Josefine head out to the edge of Berlin to find out what village life is like…top chop suey!)

hohen neuendorf III

Just on the outskirts of Berlin is Hohen Neuendorf which is famous for… well not a lot really…

But that does not stop Josefine and her Dad going and exploring, and once there we did stumble across an old Prussian mile stone, a nice little church, a water tower, Germanys largest Chinese restaurant (see photo) and a memorial which is all in Russian which turns out to honour soldiers of the 1st Polish Infantry Division who on 22 April 1945 tried to stop a break through by the German Army  to the Havel.

Eleven Poles died and were buried here…hence the memorial. To get Hohen Neuendorf and to get a taste of life in a small village in Brandenburg you can take the S1 to Hohen Neuendorf.

Here’s a map.

Josefine says: DAD I ONLY WANT PLAY WITH LEGO!!!!!

Windhorst bild(Next up on Jared’s guide to the best bars of Berlin and elsewhere is Windhorst, a great little place in the heart of the city)

Located on a side street close to Friedichstrasse, the Windhorst is a small bar with place for about thirty souls, and every time I have been there the atmosphere has been busy and yet relaxed, usually with some nice jazz on the sound system. This fits the decor, with photographs of jazz legends and a Cuban guy drinking rum looking down from the walls.

The centrepiece, as in all good drinking establishments, is the bar itself. Elegant, beautiful and topped with a nice light wood, it is everything you expect of a bar. But of course, what is most important are the drinks placed upon it. I asked the bartender for a recommendation of something vodka-based but not too sweet. He pointed out a few on the menu, and I selected the Mrs Rockefeller, which is made with vodka, fresh lime juice, cassis and a shot of campari, and finished with grapefruit juice.

It came in a chilled martini glass, and I have to say it tasted very nice. The flavours were complex, and it was not too sweet…it was the fresh lime juice that was the key to the whole drink. The rest of the menu makes it clear that this is a bar run by someone who is passionate about the drinks that are going out, and there are no traditional cocktails. It looks mainly as if these are drinks that have been created in-house and carefully selected.

Altogether I can recommend the Windhorst for good drinks and a pleasant, unpretentious atmosphere. As with all the best bars, you can see the personality of the owner and the bartenders both in how the place looks and feels, and the drinks that they choose to serve. So hop on the tram M1 from outside the Circus, and go and check it out.

WindhorstWindhorst Bar and Lounge
Dorotheenstraße 65, Berlin-Mitte

Open Monday to Friday from 6pm, Saturday from 9pm.
Click on the map for a closer look of how to get there.

jose

(Picture: Shy, Modest, Reserved…the one and only Special One)

The rain fell and began to wash the paint away from the Rosenthaler Platz, so we need to find some other ways of amusing ourselves in Berlin this week. As ever, our Minister of Fun, the Right Honourable Andrew Rowley has put together the events programme here at The Circus, as well as his own tips and tricks for those of you who fancy a night on the town. Here’s what’s going down…

@ The Circus

Goldman’s Bar is filled with football fever, as both semi-finals of the European Champions (and some others) League are being shown live and on the big screen. Tonight we have Lyon versus FC Bayern, or Les Gomes versus the Lederhosen, whilst tomorrow is Barcelona versus Inter Milan, or Messi the Magician versus Mourinho the Mouth.

Also coming to Goldman’s Bar is a good friend of the Circus, Tim McMillan from Australia, who will be playing with his band following the glorious victory (or otherwise) of Bayern Munich this evening. On Thursday, the sound will be soul, as the Floorettes (Big Soul Band) take to the stage.

Saturday is of course the chance to grab the microphone yourself, with the understated and never-really-raucous KARAOKE KLUB.

We also have more live music for you across the road at FABISCH, with Sonia Brex performing some of the new material that will appear on her forthcoming album on Friday night (10pm), with Jim Hickey popping in on Sunday evening (9pm) to give us some of his own brand of acoustic indie pop.

Also don’t miss our Wednesday night APERITIF, with finger food and sounds from DJ Frau Brex.

In Berlin

A couple of recommendations for this week in Berlin…

27th April (Tonight!) – Booka Shade at the Astra Kulturhaus
28th April (Tomorrow!) – Nachtflohmarkt at the SO36…a nighttime fleamarket at one of Berlin’s legendary clubs, with free entry and DJs to keep you entertained whilst you shop.
1st May (Saturday!) – Detroit 25 Years, with Carl Craig at the Weekend Club…not to be missed!

Painted Platz 1A sunny Sunday. Berliners wander from cafe to park to ice cream shop. The playgrounds are packed, all green spaces are filled. When the sun shines Berlin seems somehow more colourful, more friendly…and when some cyclists armed with buckets of paint step out in front of the cars lined up at the traffic lights of Rosenthaler Platz, they are determined to make their own colourful splash on this lazy April Sunday.

As the lights turn green the cars, buses, bicycles and trucks move forward, their tires becoming the paint brushes…the drivers are no doubt unamused that they are now streaked with purple, blue, yellow and pink…but the artists involved insist through posters stuck around the square that the paint is both environmentally friendly and washable. Other than that the motives are unclear…but what is sure is that we can definately call it street art.

(Thanks to Katrin for the photographs)

Painted Platz 2

Botanischer Volkspark Pankow IIIf there is one member of the Circus crew who knows the corners of Berlin that even natives of the city have never taken it upon themselves to visit, it is Jim…who now has company for his explorations of the hidden places of Berlin, as daughter Josefine accompanies him on his explorations. This time they stayed on home territory, with a trip to the Botanischer Volkspark in Pankow…

The Botanischer Volkspark Pankow is so unknown that I think Josefine and I were the only foreigners ever to visit. To get there from the Circus you must take the M1 tram to Pankow and then get on bus 107. It has 6000 different types of plants of which some of them are in the newly renovated glass house. There is a small wall with over 100 different types of rocks, and an insect hotel (which is just wooden blocks with hole drilled into it – see photo above), but the best thing about the place is simply the nature. We saw a bird that we have never seen before, a wild hare, a wild pheasant and a what we thought was a wild deer, but actually turned out to be escaped from the little deer enclosure that they have judging by the frantic actions of the park staff.

If you want to go and check it out, here’s a map…

Botanischer Volkspark Pankow I

StefanieScheier2We have long been fans of the work of Stefanie Scheier, who crafts her wonderful ceramic pieces at her studio-shop on Husemannstraße, near Kollwitzplatz in Prenzlauer Berg. She describes the inspiration for her pieces as follows:

“What is important for my work is the choice and combination of material; simple shapes and the design of the surfaces…working with various coloured clay, using a special paint.”

Both the look and the feel of Stefanie’s work is timeless, reflecting both her talent and a commitment to her craft where the value of an object comes not only through the aesthetic qualities of the piece, but also in the time and effort devoted to its creation. We have examples of her work as part of our “Berlin Design Showcase”, which you can find in both the hostel and the hotel.

Better yet, you can visit Stefanie at her studio-shop, which is open on Thursdays and Fridays between 1pm and 7pm, and again on Saturdays between 11am and 4pm. The address is Husemannstraße 22 (google map) and you can also get more information on Stefanie’s website.

StefanieScheier3

Which way nowOver the past few days three of us from the Circus – myself, Andreas and Christian – took a little time out from Berlin to explore one of the most beautiful corners of Europe. Having strapped our motorbikes to the car train in Berlin, we woke up to the sunshine of Trieste and the blue waters of the Adriatic. We drove down the coast, from Italy through the sliver of Slovenia and into Croatia and the Istrian peninsula.

Rovinj Bay

After a couple of days staying in Rovinj, with a days exploration of the hill villages and valleys of Istria, we headed north and back into Slovenia, where we not only found some near-perfect mountain scenery, but also friendly farmhouse to stay in, where the family made the greatest salami any of us have ever tasted. Still in Slovenia, after the calm of Soca Valley, it was on the Vrsic Pass that we had probably our greatest adventure, as the piles of snow grew ever deeper with each metre above sea level we climbed. As you can see from the  following picture, there was not much of a view to be had from the top of the pass.

Top of the Mountain

From there we descended down towards the Austrian border, and crossed over before the final day was spent traversing Austria along its steep mountain valleys until we turned a corner and suddenly found ourselves back in Germany. Then all that was left was to brave the Munich rush-hour traffic to get back to the car train and another gently-rocking night-train ride, this time north through the country and back to Berlin.

Down on the valley

As you can see from the pictures, we were treated to both wonderful weather and spectacular landscapes, with good food and roads that any motorbike rider would dream about. If your next trip can’t be to Berlin, then we can certainly recommend a trip down to a corner of Europe that is the meeting point of different countries and cultures, with great beaches and barren karst hinterlands, dramatic mountains and fertile valleys, all within a couple of hours of each other.

Intrepid Explorers

- Andreas, Christian and Paul.

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