Christmas Market

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Alt RixdorfMany of you might have heard of the neighbourhood of Neukölln, down south from The Circus. Originally, back when Berlin was much smaller than it is today, what is now Neukölln was a village called Rixdorf, outside the city limits. Over the years, with industrialisation and the rise of Berlin as the capital of a unified Germany, Rixdorf grew and was eventually swallowed by the city. It was something of a bawdy and gaudy  nightlife neighbourhood whose reputation became so bad there was only one thing for it – re-branding, and so Rixdorf became the Neukölln that we know today.

But even through all these changes, one corner of the neighbourhood around the Richardplatz kept true to its origins, and if you go down and explore the streets around, you will be transported from the hustle and bustle of the city to a village scene that belongs somewhere out beyond Berlin in Brandenburg. Which means that of all the places to hold a Christmas Market in the city, Alt-Rixdorf (Old Rixdorf) must surely be the most atmospheric… and thankfully the second advent weekend each year is reserved for the Alt-Rixdorf Weihnachtsmarkt, which is taking place over the next three days.

As you might expect, given the surrounding, the Alt-Rixdorf market is fairly traditional, filled with stalls selling handcrafted wooden toys, pottery and candles, as well as all the food and drink that makes an evening at the Christmas Market such a tasty proposition. So if you want to experience one of Berlin’s most special festive experiences, head down to Old Rixdorf and dive in to village life.

The market is on today from 5pm to 9pm, on Saturday from 2pm to 9pm, and on Sunday from 2pm to 8pm. Your best bet to get to Richardplatz (Google Maps) from the Circus, is to take the U8 south from Rosenthaler Platz to Hermannplatz, and then change to the U7 to Karl-Marx-Straße.

The Alt-Rixdorf Christmas Market was featured on Slow Travel Berlin’s guide, which inspired us to this post – so thanks guys!

Lucia

(Photo: Come on, is that not romantic? The Lucia Weihnachtsmarkt an der Kulturbrauerei, image by Jochen Loch)

Y’all ready for this? AWOOGA! The Best Time Of The Year ™ is upon us, and it is time for our annual guide to our favourite Chirstmas Markets in Berlin. There are loads of course, what with this being the German capital, and you can get an overview of all of them over on the official tourism portal for the city… but we are allowed to be a little more picky, so we have picked six of our favourites, based on atmosphere, stumbling distance from the Circus, and the quality of the handcrafted toys and the strength of the shots they pop in the glühwein. And yes, it is still November. But then again, the supermarkets were selling chocolate santas when we still had guests wearing flip-flops, so the markets seem somehow restrained in comparison.

So Posh you have to pay… Gendarmenmarkt

Daily until the 31st December, 11am-10pm

Nothing keeps the riff-raff out like a cover charge*, but then again it is only €1 and they promise that all the money goes to the performers to take to the central stage to keep you entertained. This market combines lots of different arts and crafts stalls with a truly international food and drink selection that, it must be said, is particularly good… and altogether it is definitely worth a hundred cents of anyone’s money. One thing to look out for is that they will end their 2012 market season with a party on New Year’s Eve featuring live music and fireworks, and all for the sum of €10.

*entry is actually free on weekdays between 11am and 2pm, and of course… once you’re in, you’re in.

Website
Google Maps

Right by Wowi’s front door… Rotes Rathaus

Daily until the 31st December, 12noon-10pm

In front of the city hall and surrounding the Neptune fountain you will find the nicer of the three markets on and around the Alexanderplatz. There is a big wheel with great views across the city, and ice rink and the daily visit of Father Christmas himself, who passes by on the sleigh overhead. On the Alexanderplatz itself you will find more stalls (less tasteful, in our humble opinion… but then again,  it is a Christmas Market) and thrill-seekers need to head around the back of the Alexa where you will find all manner of rides to help you regurgitate your glühwein and grilled bratwurst… Lecker!

Google Maps

Those were the days my friend… Nostalgiamarkt at the Opernpalais

Daily until the 26th December, Mon-Thu 12noon-9.30pm, Fri-Sat 11am-10.30pm, Sun 11am-9.30pm

If your idea of a German Christmas Market is all pain-stakingly crafted wooden toys and smoking men, sizzling sausages and warming glühwein, roasting chestnuts and horse-drawn carriage rides, then the Nostalgia Market at the Opera House on Under den Linden is the place for you. Of course, whether or not they are harking back to an actual, Ye Olde Market Of Yore or simply a 21st Century idea of what an old-fashioned Christmas Market should actually look like is up for debate, but boy is it ever atmospheric.

Website
Google Maps

Northern Soul… The Lucia Weihnachtsmarkt at the Kulturbrauerei

Daily until the 23rd December, Mon-Fri  5pm-10pm, Sat-Sun 3pm-10pm

Lucia is the Nordic goddess of light, and the Christmas market at the Kulturbrauerei is a festive celebration of all things Scandinavian. You will find it in the grounds of an old brewery that has been turned into a cultural centre, just up the hill from Rosenthaler Platz, and as well as all kinds of Nordic handicrafts and culinary delights, the market also features a daily cultural programme from 8pm as well as kid’s shows on the weekends.

Website
Google Maps

Go West… Spandau Altstadt

Daily until the 23rd December, Mon-Thu 11am-10pm, Fri 11am-9pm, Sat 11am-10pm, Sun 11am-8pm

In the west of the city you will find the proud district of Spandau and its lovely historic Old Town, and for the next month you will also find Berlin’s largest Christmas Market. At the weekend there are over 400 different stalls in operation (with over half that during the week), specials for kids and families, a historic crafts market and the intriguing-sounding “Christmas Rock Concert” (Slade, anyone?) every Friday evening. Well worth the cross-town journey.

Website
Google Maps

Something for the Weekend… Green Christmas Market on Koppenplatz

Until the 23rd December on the weekends, Sat 12.30pm-8.30pm and Sun 11am-7pm

Formerly on the Sophienstraße, this weekend Christmas Market takes place on the Koppenplatz and the Große Hamburger Straße, literally around the corner from Rosenthaler Platz and the Circus. With an environmental focus, so you can buy your ecologically conscious members of the family plenty of right-on Chrimbo presents and the Santa, bucking the Coca-Cola-inspired trend, is wearing green and not red. There are some great shops on the street as well that are well worth checking out.

Website
Google Maps

2011reviewparttwo

Okay, so we reached the middle of the year yesterday in our review of 2011 via Circus blogposts, and as the cold wind blows outside the windows of the office here on Rosenthaler Platz it is hard to picture those warm and sunny days of barbecues in the park where we left things, but we will use the power of the blog and an ability to link to take us back to the recent past…

July. The Women’s Football World Cup got serious as we reached the knock-out stages. Germany, as always, were great hosts of the tournament, but they fell foul on the pitch to a surprise defeat at the hands of the eventual winners Japan. Here at The Circus we made a film, brought Dandy of the Grotesque into Fabisch, and began our tours to Kreuzberg with Jim Hudson whilst Jule and the other Jim took people to explore Marzahn.

Into August and Rani delivered the first designs for the new cafe and lounge at the apartments, whilst Sasa and the gang began the long process of deciding what special things would be served there. Berlin commemorated the fiftieth anniversary of the building of the Berlin Wall with a series of different events and exhibitions around the city, whilst we met a 70 year-old on his birthday who had been born in the very building that now houses The Circus Hotel. Meanwhile Andrew was having a weekly struggle with the weather, Toga was off to watch his team at the Olympic Stadium, and Sandra was getting “in the mood” with her plans for new apartments. It all seems so long ago…

In September we met Carl Oskar for the first time when he popped by the hotel for a visit, but otherwise it was work, work, work, work, on the Circus Apartments. Meanwhile, we were checking out the international literature festival, and many of our guests were gaining our complete admiration as they took on the Berlin Marathon course. As we moved into autumn a friend of ours published a book on a subject close to the hearts of the English-speaking staff members of The Circus – beer – whilst Preston ran a special photography tour for the festival of lights and Digel waved to passing members of the St Pauli football team on Torstraße.

Into November and we hosted the inaugural meeting of the Berlin St Georges Supporters Club down in Goldman’s Bar, began our new fundraising campaign with our friends at Multitude, celebrated Thanksgiving in the Circus Cafe and drank our first glasses of glühwein at the Berlin Christmas Markets.

And so we reach December and the end of 2011. Sometimes December can be a calm and quiet month at The Circus, but not this year. We had a film crew come by the hostel to make a special clip for our website (coming soon!) but mostly we were getting the apartments ready for launch, which we did last week.

So as Christmas and New Year’s Eve approaches, we reach the end of our special review of 2011 (part two), and we would just like to take this opportunity to thank everyone – guests, staff, partners and friends – who have been with us during 2011 and the next year of the Circus story. In 2012 the Circus will be FIFTEEN years old… who could imagine what would have happened when the doors opened on that first 40-bed building close to Friedrichstraße.

Ah, enough of the nostalgia. See you soon.

xmasmarket

This Sunday is the first Advent as we get ever closer to THE BEST TIME OF THE YEAR. Whoop! And here in Berlin that means that many of the Christmas Markets have, despite the fact that it is closer to the middle of November than the end, already fired up the chestnut-roaster, warmed their glühwein, laid out their handicrafted nick-nacks and opened their doors. And who cares if it is early? After all, Lidl laid out their Christmas chocolate selection when people were still swimming in the Wannsee, so the Christmas Marketiers appear restrained in comparison.

So here we go, with our very own Circus Christmas Market Guide (Cee Cee Em Gee for short) to seven spots around town where you can get into the festive spirit…

So classy there’s a cover charge… Gendarmenmarkt

Yeah, okay, you have to pay. But it is only €1 and they promise that the proceeds go to the performers. At the heart of this wonderfully atmospheric market there is a stage with a variety of shows going on throughout the day, including circus skillz, live music and other treats. Plus you can of course buy all your special Christmas markets, and the food and drink selection is particularly good. Worth a hundred cents of anyone’s money.

Open Daily, from the 21st November to the 31st December
Website
Google Maps

For all you Northern souls… Lucia Weinachtsmarkt at the Kulturbrauerei

Lucia is the Nordic goddess of light, and the Christmas market at the Kulturbrauerei is a festive celebration of all things Scandinavian. You will find it in the grounds of an old brewery that has been turned into a cultural centre, just up the hill from Rosenthaler Platz, and as well as all kinds of Nordic handicrafts and culinary delights, the market also features a daily cultural programme from 8pm as well as kid’s shows on the weekends.

Open Daily, from the 21st November to the 22nd December
Website
Google Maps

Something for the weekend… Sophienstraße

Just down the street from Rosenthaler Platz, the Sophienstraße is one of Berlin-Mitte’s most picturesque streets, and so it should be no surprise that this nice little market is a personal favourite of ours.  This is, to give it it’s full name, “The Berlin Environmental and Christmas Market”, and so you can buy your ecologically conscious members of the family plenty of right-on Chrimbo presents and the Santa, bucking the Coca-Cola-inspired trend, is wearing green and not red. There are some great shops on the street as well that are well worth checking out.

Open every Saturday and Sunday for the next four weeks
Google Maps

Cross-town traffic… Spandau Altstadt

In the west of the city you will find the proud district of Spandau and its lovely historic Old Town, and for the next month you will also find Berlin’s largest Christmas Market. At the weekend there are over 400 different stalls in operation (with over half that during the week), specials for kids and families, a historic crafts market and the intriguing-sounding “Christmas Rock Concert” (Slade, anyone?) every Friday evening. Well worth the cross-town journey.

Open daily, from 25th November to the 23rd December
Website
Google Maps

Painting the town red… Rotes Rathaus

There is a Christmas Market directly on the Alexanderplatz, but a better bet is on the other side of the train tracks and past the tv tower on the large open square in front of the Red Town Hall. There you will find a lovely big wheel with great views across the city, and ice rink around the Neptune Fountain, and the usual assortment of food, drink and craft stalls… including the chance to sip on a stone mug of hot mead in the local tavern, and party like its 1299…

Open daily from 21st November to the 26th December
Google Maps

Don’t look back in anger… Nostalgia Market at the Opernpalais

Double-dose of the nostalgia this year as not only is the market – as usual – attempting the hark back to some byegone age of ye olde xmas markets, but also to twenty years ago and the first Opernpalais market that took place not long after the fall of the wall and the reunification of Germany. This is the place to come for your small wooden handicrafts, roasted chestnuts and almonds, aromatic mulled wine and all manner of sweet treats.

Open daily from 23rd November to the 26th December
Website
Google Maps

Perfect for lazy festive Sundays… Kollwitzplatz

Kollwitzplatz is a short walk from The Circus in the neighbouring district of Prenzlauer Berg, and is already a justifiably famous market spot thanks to its organic markets on Thursdays and Sundays. On the four Advent Sundays in the run-up to Christmas it gets into the festive spirit as well, bringing Christmassy treats with an ecological twist. The neighbourhood around the square is also worth exploring, with plenty of nice cafes to warm cold toes…

Open on Sundays from the 27th November to the 18th December
Website
Google Maps

Christmas Market

Not long ago on the Circus blog we wrote about the Lucia Weihnachtsmarkt at the Kulturbrauerei, just up the hill from Rosenthaler Platz in Prenzlauer Berg. But there are many more Christmas Markets taking place right now throughout the city, and we thought it would be a nice idea to present you with some of our favourites.

Opernpalais Christmas Market

A very pleasant “nostalgia” market just off Unter den Linden, although when the bus tours arrive on the weekend it can get incredibly busy. To make the most of one of Berlin’s most atmospheric markets, get there early…it is never too early for a warming mug of gluhwein after all…

Open Mon-Thu (12.00-21.30), Fri-Sat (11.00-22.30) and Sun (11.00-21.30), until the 26th December
Google Maps

Christmas Market at Gendarmenmarkt

Pretty posh and you have to pay to get in…but it only costs €1 and even this small entry fee works quite well in keeping the crowds under control. An excellent choice if you want to buy some craft-type wooden presents to send home to your mum, and there is some great food on offer too.

Open daily from 11.00-22.00 until the 31st December
Google Maps

Christmas Market by the Rotes Rathaus

Standing in the shadow of the “Red Town Hall”, the Christmas Market that surrounded the Neptune Fountain is pretty standard, although there are a couple of highlights. The big wheel offers up great views over the city, and the ice rink around the fountain is the place to try out your best Torville and Dean/Wayne Gretzky/Katarina Witt/Disney on Ice* moves.

(*Delete as culturally appropriate)

Open daily until the 26th December
Google Maps

Organic Christmas Market at Kollwitzplatz

Push through the crowds of parents and their prams and you will find a nice little market up in Prenzlauer Berg, occupying one of the neighbourhoods nicest squares. Plenty of good, healthy grub to fill your belly, and lots of sustainable/fair trade/organic gifts to take back home. If you get too cold, the area around the market is packed with great cafes and restaurants to warm up in.

Open daily from 12.00-19.00, until the 19th December
Google Maps

Christmas Market on Sophienstrasse

Another “environmentally friendly” Christmas Market, this is only running on the weekends when it has the distinction of being the closest market to the Circus. Sophienstrasse is one of Berlin’s loveliest streets and there are some great shops to explore as well as the stalls themselves, which offer up some unusual and different treats to what you would normally expect on a Christmas market.

Open Saturdays (12.00-21.00) and Sundays (11.00-19.00), until the 19th December
Google Maps

Lucia Weihnachtsmarkt

(Photo: Jochen Loch / Lucia Weihnachtsmarkt)

I love Christmas, and I love Christmas Markets. It is difficult to explain why. Perhaps it is the smell of roasting chestnuts or sizzling Bratwurst. Maybe its the first sip of warm glühwein under a clear sky. It could also be the simple fact that Christmas always makes me feel young again. Anyway, the combination of twinkling lights, warming alcohol and a good sausage is enough to put a smile on my face, and thanks to an nice long advents period this year the festivities have already begun, even though December is still a week away.

One of my favourite Christmas Markets is just up the street from the Circus in the Kulturbrauerei. the Lucia Weihnachtsmarkt is celebrating their ten year anniversary in 2010, and with its atmospheric location in the courtyards of the former brewery-turned-cultural centre, it is a great place to get into the Christmas spirit. As well as the typical handicrafts and arts stalls (great for present inspiration) and different types of food and drink, the market also has some other attractions, including:

- a bungee trampoline
- merry-go-round for children and adults
- “Coat-Open-Air-Heater“ and “Swedenfire“ artworks
- Santa visits the market daily between 5 and 6 pm
- cultural program/ show daily at 8 pm, admission free

You can get to the Christmas Market either by a ten-minute walk up the hill from Rosenthaler Platz, or else jump on the Tram M1 to Eberswalder Strasse (3 stops) and walk around the corner. The Christmas Market is open from Mondays-Fridays at 3pm until 10pm, and on the weekend from 1pm until 10pm. I’ll see you at the sausage stand.

Lucia Weihnachtsmarkt website
Google Maps