Food

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hudsons counterI have a new favourite street in Berlin and it is the Schönleinstrasse in Kreuzberg. The Saturday before last I headed down there with Katrin, Jim and little Lotte.

We popped in at the Cheese Mountain Tragedy gallery and studio to say hello to Josh, whose sketches have appeared on this blog before and whose daily comic makes me smile an awful lot.

Two doors down and we could say hello to Sharmaine and Thomas at Dialogue Books, who held a pop-up bookshop at the Circus on our Slow Travel Day and also appeared recently on this (virtual) pages.

It was nice to see them and what they were up to, but we had a different mission on that sunny Saturday morning. We had heard about Hudson’s cakes, which was why Katrin was along for the ride, but the rumours had also reached us that Jim and Katie, the co-owners of the cafe, were also offering cooked breakfast on the weekend.

Bacon and eggs on a Saturday morning anyone? Yep, that’s right…with proper baked beans as well, should you so wish. On Saturdays breakfast is offered a la carte, whilst on Sunday it is buffet time…make a date in my diary, oh yes, don’t mind if I do.

Hudsons Table

After breakfast (our) Jim took us around his old neighbourhood until enough time had passed that it was time for cake, so we headed back to Hudson’s to pick up some to take home with us. Mighty fine, same as the breakfast.

This is what makes Hudson’s so perfect for Anglo-German families such as ours…an English breakfast and then Kaffee und Kuchen. And with a bookshop down the street. What a great way to spend a Saturday.

(Hudson’s Cakes is not actually on Schönleinstrasse…the address is Boppstrasse .1, but it is basically the same street. Go and check it out if you don’t believe me…)

BBQ 3Is there anything a Backpacker could desire more than a free BBQ on a sunny day with some locals in a lively park in one of the most vibrant cities in the world?

Probably not much!

That’s why us –some folks of the Circus family- decided to organise exactly this event for our guests in Mauerpark. The date was set to be May 21st, which turned out to be the only day of sun within four consecutive days of rain. There was about 15 guests gathering in the lobby excitingly waiting for the pick up. And there was us two girls bribing the guys with free beer to carry the BBQ and the massive suitcase full of sausages and sauces. And that’s how the party got started!

BBQ 1

We ended up to be about 35 people in the park as there was a lot of people joining us later on and quiet a few of our staff members as well. The only interruption of all the chatting and drinking games going on, was when one of the organizers got interviewed by a TV team about the responsible choice of coal for the BBQ (which is certified coal involving no cutting down of virgin forests). Considering the beers that have already been drunken by then it was quiet funny to watch.

Apart from advancing from receptionists to TV stars, there was a lot of action going on from playing Australian drinking games over smearing lipstick in sleeping people’s faces. All in one it was a fantastic afternoon with lots of beers sponsored by lots of different people and lots of sausages (that all got eaten up in the end :) )

Thanks guys and see you next time!

Lisa

BBQ 2

Mocktoberfest 2

Of course we are biased and think that Berlin is the greatest city in the world, let alone Germany, but there is one thing that our good friends down in Bavaria do way better than we do and that is beer and sausages. So in what we like to think of as a tribute to the good life down in the south, we are transforming the Circus Cafe every Tuesday evening into our own, very special Pavement Biergarten as the venue for our weekly Mocktoberfest. Last night was the opening, and as you can see the one litre beers proved very popular. There are some that would say that there is no way the Weinbergsweg can compete with the Theresienwiese but we think that they are just, you know, different.

The Mocktoberfest at the Pavement Biergarten, The Circus Hostel
Every Tuesday from 6pm
Litre Beer + a Sausage = €5

PS. If you are heading down to the real thing this year, go and stay with some friends of ours (but book early!): The Euro Youth Hotel Munich

Mocktoberfest 1

I have been wanted to write this post for a while, and seeing as I am off in sunny Spain it seemed like a good time to highlight some other good reads from this fair city that help inform, entertain and provide inspiration.

Two bloggers who deserve a mention, and not only for their wonderful words and pictures, are Berlin Reified and FoodieInBerlin. Not only will both their blogs give you some great ideas for things to see and do in the city – especially when it comes to the gastronomic aspects of Berlin – but everyone at The Circus is still raving about the fantastic cakes and sweet stuffs they provided as part of our Slow Travel Day a few weeks ago.

Another food-related blog from Berlin that is well worth checking out is the Wednesday Chef, by writer and home cook Lusia Weiss. On her blog you will find great recipes to try at home, and is a great taster of what is to come when her book My Berlin Kitchen is published.

Finally, if all that food is just making your stomach rubble, delve into the history of the city through the The Berlin Memory Blog. Written by cultural historian Joseph Pearson, this is an evocative record of the past and the present in Berlin, which includes some great pictures as well as maps to show you whereabouts in the city Joseph is writing about.

Of course, these are just a handful of blogs about Berlin, but they are some of my personal favourites. Keep up the good work guys!

we all like cakeThe morning after…well, it was an absolutely wonderful slow day yesterday, with tours, books, cake, beer, films and talks, and I just wanted to use the opportunity to say a great big thank you from the Circus to everyone that came by, joined in the fun, and of course those who brought their energy and creativity as part of the Slow Travel Day:

Sharmaine and Thomas, the most knowledgable booksellers in town from Dialogue Books Berlin.
Everyone at the team from Context Travel for their information Walk of the Wall.
Our urban sketchers Rolf Schroeter, Olga Prudnikova and Catalina Somolinos.
There were no better cakes and sweet treats in town than those provided by Berlin Reified and FoodieInBerlin.
Stuart Holt for presenting and showing his Most Interesting Person project.
Johannes and Stephan for bringing the BIER.
Florian, who gave the assembled crowd a definate feeling of wanderlust in presenting his film Jakarta-Berlin.

And of course, to our cultural curator, Paul Sullivan from Slow Travel Berlin for all his hard work in organising the event.

You can see some more photos again, after the jump…

Read the rest of this entry »

Bandol_EntryOn a Sunday evening, when I once more could not be assed to cook for my girlfriend, I decided to treat her to a meal a a little joint I know on Torstrasse. Once a fastfood place, Bandol has kept many of the fixtures and fittings of its former incarnation, and looks a little bit like the kebab (or hamburger) joint that it once was.

One you walk in there is the normal glass case, but instead of being filled with salad items for your döner, it houses wagu beef and other mise en place for the evening. The walls are painted black and have the evening menu written up there, and above is the only decoration in the whole restaurant – old wooden fridges hanging from the ceiling, like the ones you’ve seen in the old movies.

The one problem with handwritten, chalkboard menus is that if the writer does not have a steady hand, it can be a little bit difficult to work out what there is to eat. So I was pleased to be handed a printed menu, but this was countered by the fact that it was printed in the same handwriting as on the walls…whoever that person is, I can only presume they were a doctor in a former life.

Bandol_DrinksBetween us we finally worked out what was on offer, and the apperizers ranged from winter salad with wild boar to oyters, via foie gras and snails. Now, as a diciple of Anthony Bourdain I am commited to try pretty much anything once, but my girl was not in an adventurous mood so we settled for the winter salad with wild boar and cranberries.

When it arrived, the meat and the salad were separate, and the wild boar was surrounded in a dough that tasted a little bit like Christmas stollen. Apart from this, the flavour was surprisingly muted, although the cranberry sauce helped. As for the winter salad I was extremely impressed by the chop-chop work that went into the apples and beets.

Before our main course arrived we were served our amus bouche, which was a hot soup of leek and potatoes with two neatly placed dollops of olive oil. Our server told us it was a present…but I am wise to these things by now, and know that everyone gets this “present” in order to feel special. And if everyone gets it, then its no so special anymore now is it?

From our seat we could see into the open kitchen, and at one point we noticed the kitchen guys swinging into action, getting busy chopping and firing things off. A good sign, as it was clear that there was no re-heating going on, this was food cooked a la minute. I had ordered the Irish entrecote accompanied by vegetables and a potato gratin. My girlfriend had fish, served with some sort of julienned cabbage and fried blood in a sauce with white bubbles. Interesting.

Bandol_FoodThe beef was good, but the fish had very little taste, although the fried blood tasted fine until my girlfriend told me what it was, causing my commitment to waver after a couple of mouthfuls. We ended the meal with creme brulee, accompanied by mandarins and cappucino. The mandarins were served in an orange reduction and combined perfectly with the creme brulee. Nice!

So what did I think about the whole experience? From an atmosphere point of view, I had a great time, and really felt for the time I was there that I was sitting in a small place down a sidestreet in Paris. The service however was not that informative, often bored, and more of a burden than a help. Not such a good sign. The food was generally good – although the fish was a bit plain – but the prices (main meals between €25 and €28) suggest that you should really be getting something spectacular. It may feel like Paris, but this is still Berlin baby.

Which got me to thinking that perhaps the reputation of the place, and the prices that go with it, are a little overblown. I would go again, but would stick to a drink and steak and not mess around with anything else. If you want a small and cozy spot for dinner, with a nice atmosphere, then Bandol is a good choice…but for the price the quality of the food and service does not let me rate it as highly recommended.

Bandol – The Low Down:

Where: Torstrasse 167 (UBhf Rosenthaler Platz)
Open: Daily from 1800 to 2300
Reservations: A must! There are generally two sittings, one at 1800 and one at 2100. Call ahead on 030 67 30 20 51
Prices: Starters (€12,50-€18,50), Mains (€25 and up), 4-course Set Menu (€48). NO CARDS ACCEPTED
Seats: 15

Mr Goldman Rating (of 5): **

spaghettiwestern2Out for dinner once more, my girlfriend and I were celebrating her excellent results in some university exams and I did not feel my own culinary skills were up to the occasion. We headed to Spaghetti Western on Torstrasse, just a hop, skip and a jump from my place, and I have been there many times, drawn in by the aroma of olive oil and garlic.

We arrived a little after eight, and were lucky to find a table for two at the back of the room. This meant we could talk with no-one listening, and we also had a good view from which to observe our fellow diners. As I had been there a few times, this time it was my turn to be the expert about the menu, so I made a couple of suggestions.

We ordered the spaghetti with cherry tomatoes, mozzarella cheese, black olives and rocket. As we waited for our pasta to arrive we were served homemade bread…which was extremely well seasoned and freshly baked. We sat back to have a chat and wait for our mains. The rest of the people in the place were also chatting, which made for a lively atmosphere of easy-going people; a mostly young crowd looking to have a need feed without a hefty price tag.

When our meals arrived the portions seemed, at first glance, to be a little bit small, but it was deceiving since it was piled pretty high. The tomatoey sauce looked very light, and you could tell they had used a high grade olive oil. The rest of the trimmings were a little thing, although they were nicely cooked and fit the spaghetti very well…giving a diverse tasting experience with each bite, which kept our mouths entertained.

We followed up the meal with coffees – including a fifty-fifty success rate by the barista when it came to coffee-foam artwork – and this time my girlfriend offered to pay. Thankfully for students such as her, this quick dinner made with fresh-ingredients was extremely reasonable, and is a great option for a quick dinner only a ten minute walk down the street from the Circus. Tasty.

Grill-Royal-OutOn Saturday night it was my girlfriend’s birthday, and as you know Mr Goldman likes the romantic gesture, so I had to make the right choice for dinner. The occasion called for some good beef, a little bit of decadence, and the joy of people-watching, so I went for the starting point of Berlin’s elite party crowd: The Grill Royal.

If that was what I was looking for, then it soon became clear that I made the right choice. First up, the beef. As we sipped our first drinks of wine and alcohol-free beer (we turned down the suggestion of champagne or a bellini) we tried to decipher the menu, but the complicated culinary terminology was quickly too much, as was the sheer range of choice when it came to different cuts of meats and ways of preparation. We called someone over to help.

I was interested in the T-Bone (yabba, dabba, do!) but when I explained that I was not looking for a thick piece of meat and she showed me using her fingers what I was about to order my stomach revolted in advance at the thought of handling that amount of beef in one sitting. Instead, our new friend suggested either the entrecote from the USA, or the Wagyu from Australia. Now, I have heard about this Wagyu beef, and the rumours that these happy cows have an extremely controlled diet, get to listen to classical music, and have their own masseuse.

Can this be true? Indeed, our waitress told us. Yes, the cows have a very special diet, and yes they are massaged. She mentioned nothing about classical music, but then again the Australian version of these cows are perhaps bigger fans of Cold Chisel. In any case, we took her advice and ordered the cut from the States and the cut from Down Under, with some sides of grilled asparagus, sweet potato fries and some potato puree. Oh, and for a starter we ordered a KILO of prawns. It was a special occasion after all…

As we waited for our food we got into people-watching period of the evening, and in Grill Royal there was certainly a lot of interesting characters to look at, and we had a lot of fun playing the game of trying to guess people’s background and professions just by looking at them across a crowded restaurant. The place was pretty smart – a lot of suits, dinner dresses and complicated eye make-up – and the tell-tale sign of a number of older men (who ate their prawns with their fingers and by the fist-load) with their skinny younger partners (who attempted to shell their prawns with a knife and fork – 2011’s most effective dieting strategy). But this being Berlin we also spotted gay couples, some casual dressers and the odd transvestite, so the generally stiff atmosphere could never get too uncomfortable.

The KILO of prawns arrived, perfectly cooked with butter and garlic, to be delivered by service staff whose raised eyebrows suggested surprise that two delicate flowers such as ourselves were going to attempt such a pile of seafood. The prawns were out of this world, and I began to forget the slightly surreal surroundings and unlike most of my fellow diners, I did not care who was looking or what people thought of me. We stuffed ourselves silly.

After a short break it was back to the beef. Once again the meat was fantastic, and especially when it came to our Aussie Wagyu beef it was clear that this had once been a very happy, well-fed and relaxed cow. We took our time and savoured every bite – a special mention must also go to the sweet potato chips – and then headed for a post-meal cigarette in the smoking room, where we could relax surrounded by tasteful pictures of naked women that were hanging from the walls.

Back at the table we took coffee and crème brulee, and watched a woman dressing a table next to us for the next customers. Rather than clearing the crumbs, she simply threw on another table cloth to cover up the mess beneath. It seemed to me like the perfect metaphor for the unreal atmosphere and the crowd that made up the majority of our fellow diners. But the food was excellent, and it was certainly an interesting social experiment and experience so I am extremely glad we went. A word of warning though, if you want to try if for yourselves…talk to your bank manager, as it can get a little expensive. Or else find a sugar daddy; that’s what everyone else seemed to have done.

Mr Goldman

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