Jim's Berlin

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russian supermarketUp on Landsberger Allee is a little of Russia still life and kicking in the form of a Russian supermarket.  Here you buy all the products that your average Russian misses from the homeland. Outside the supermarket is an on going BBQ selling the most delicious Schaschlik you will find this side of the River Don. For those of you not acquainted with Schashlik, it is pork on a stick with a vinegar dressing. And for those of you that think that out door grilling is only for the summer think again, it is all year and there is a little tent to keep the elements away.

There is no better way to spend an afternoon or cheaper for that matter than to buy some Russian beer and sit outside the supermarket stuffing your self with meat and watching the Russian Diaspora living there lives. The only draw back is you have to be some what creative when it come to going to the toilet… there is none… well not an official one… but bears also wee in the woods…

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Jim_LübarsLübars is the oldest village in Berlin and was first mentioned in 1247. Pre 1989 it was a place of real affection for the West Berliners who were completely surrounded by the Berlin wall as it was the only place that felt like a village. Their next opportunity would be several hundred kilometers away in West Germany.

Josefine and I can certainly confirm that that it feels like a village, complete with a little church, school, village hall, fresh air and is surrounded by fields with walking paths. There also seems to be a rather high concentration of horse riding schools here which makes a mockery out the old German saying “Das Leben ist kein Pony Hof”.

To get there (and we promise you that you are the only foreigner there) you take the U8 to Wittenau, then the S-Bahn to Wiadmannslust followed by Bus 222 to Alt-Lübers.

JFKOn the steps of Rathaus Schöneberg which was used as the City Hall for the West Berlin government is where the US President John F. Kennedy held his “Ich bin ein Berliner” speech in June 1963. In this defiant stance aimed at the Soviet Union who had 22 months earlier erected a wall around West Berlin he said “Two thousand years ago the proudest boast was civis Romanus sum [I am a Roman citizen]. Today, in the world of freedom, the proudest boast is ‘Ich bin ein Berliner’… All free men, wherever they may live, are citizens of Berlin, and, therefore, as a free man, I take pride in the words “Ich bin ein Berliner”.

Now there is a myth and this really is a myth after conferring with some of the grand masters of German grammar that JFK that Ich bin ein Berliner actually translates to I am a jelly-filled doughnut. Yes it is true that that people everywhere else in Germany called jelly filled doughnuts Berliners but in Berlin they are called Pfannkuchen, not that makes a difference, it’s still a myth. The square in front of the Rathaus changed its name to John F. Kennedy Platz after the great man 3 days after he was assassinated in Dallas Texas, and there is a large plaque by the entrance of the building commemorating his visit (see pic).

The Rathaus bell tower contains the liberty bell which was a gift from the American people to Berlin in 1950 and was supposed to be a symbol of the fight for freedom and against communism in Europe. The communists were none to impressed with this nice piece of propaganda and organized a demonstration and denounced it as the war/hunger/death bell, take your pick. Inscribed on the bell is “That this world under God shall have a new birth of freedom”.

Weissensee CemetaryThe Weißensee cemetery is the second largest Jewish cemetery in Europe and contains approximately 115.000 graves. It miraculously survived the Second War World and the Nazis relatively unscathed, and was only actually partially damaged during an allied air raid. During the next 44 years the place was pretty much neglected as basically the entire Jewish communiity had been murdered or exiled, and also for the fact that it was encouraged in the communist East Germany that only Marx and Engels would be worshipped.

It lead to a very atmospheric place with what seems like a fully grown forest bursting through a graveyard where rich and poor are buried along side each other. It is being restored bit by bit which I think makes it lose a little something …but who am I? To get there just take the tram M12 from the top of Weinbergsweg to Antonplatz. It is then a short walk.

Horses in Berlin

Now some like making statues of horses like this one which is situated at the horse race track at Treptow which one of three race tracks that we have in Berlin.

Some people like riding horses and some people even eat horses.

I however am much more a fan of betting on our 4 legged friends. Why work for a living when all you have to do is go to the race track look to see which one of the horses has the shiniest coat and which was has the smallest jockey? Now I know the old saying only fools and horses work and true horses aren’t the smartest animals in the world (still no reason to eat them), but horses are the also happier and therefore quicker when they look good and the jockey is not the size of Beth Ditto.

Anyways Friday August the 6th is a day for dairies as it is the day the Circus goes to the horses…

JIMBO’S CRAZY TOUR TO THE RACES

Jim KottiKotti…As part of Josefine in the danger zone we visited Kottbusser Tor. Now many of you will have forced to watch/ or read the book “The children of Bahnhof Zoo” which describes the Heroin drug scene around Berlin Zoo in the late seventies. A very impressive film which should scare the shit out of anyone entertaining the idea of drugs are cool.

Well these days the train station at Zoo is a sleeping tablet in comparison to “Kotti” as it is locally known. This place is the epicenter of social under class and its associated problems. It is however still one of the lively places in Berlin and multi-cultural to the hilt. The easiest way to get there from the Circus is to take the U8 to Kottbusser Tor.

Jim Wrangel Kiez(Our intrepid explorers J and J take the rest of the family on a trip to another corner of Berlin…the Wrangel Kiez)

Wrangel Kiez in Kreuzberg has a population density of approximately 27.000 people per square kilometer which is about the same as Manhattan. It also has a very young and ethnically diverse population which makes it one of the more vibrant neighbourhoods, even for Berlin standards. Of course there are plenty of scene bars and clubs including Madam Claude’s on Lübbener Strasse and Lido on the Curvy Strasse.

Josefine and I however like to hit Pizza Amore which is on Wrangel Strasse and just watch the street life. “Mister Pizza Amore” – that is his name – will try and convince you of to things 1) That he is Italian (he is from the Lebanon) and 2) That you need to put garlic sauce on your pizza as this is good for your “Amore”. Great bloke. We recommend pizza Kuku which is with Turkish spicy sausage, feta cheese and of course extra Amore. The easiest way to get there from the Circus is to take the U8 to Kottbusser Tor and then the U1 to Schlesisches Tor.

hühnerhausWhere to get a spit-roasted chicken is not quite as hotly contested as where is the best kebab in town title although there are a few contenders. The Hühnerhaus is Kreuzberg institution and set at the entrance to Görlitzer Park which is one of the liveliest parks in Berlin.

The queues are legendary but that is because it is best in   grilled chicken in Berlin. The hot sauce is a must, not too hot…. Just right…. The Hühnerhaus caters for all, young, old, rich and poor. Last summer the Police tried to stamp down on the guys selling “The Herb” in the park. The undercover police know of course who is selling the drugs and the drug dealers know who the undercover cops are and they spent days chasing each other through the bushes of the park. But when it came to hunger to the drug dealers and the police patiently queued up and ate they chicken next to each other. Ahhhh Harmony http://www.hühnerhaus.com/ . The easiest way to get there from the Circus is to take the U8 to Kottbusser Tor and then the U1 to Görlitzer Park.

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