Shopping

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christmas shoppingLast week I went to my first Christmas Market, and great fun it was too as we spent most of our time walking from one food stall to the next, sampling different delights including various forms of fried dough, meat from the grill, fish smoked above festive burning logs, and all washed down with a mug of warming glühwein. So far so good, but after ten years in Berlin I have reached saturation point when it comes to buying Chrimbo presents for the folks back home from those oh-so-photogenic wooden cabins.

Over the years I have given wooden handcrafts from the Erzgebirge, various-sized festive stars, kilos of stollen and, of course, bottles of glühwein. For the first years in Berlin shopping for presents was E.A.S.Y., but then two things happened. First of all, there’s only so much space on the mantelpiece for wooden handicrafts, however pretty they may be. Second, they only went and opened their own Christmas Markets in places like Leeds and Belfast, complete with genuine German-speaking craft-sellers, glühwein by the bucket-load, and tents selling “festive” litres of Erdinger, Paulaner and whichever other weißbier is the particular flavor of the month across the channel.

So familiarity breeds, if not contempt, then perhaps a certain level of “oh…again?” in the person receiving the present, and after nearly a decade in the city, it looks as if I shall have to branch out in my shopping habits when filling the stockings to send back home. Thankfully Natalie Holmes, writer of the wonderful sustainability and society blog The Horseshoe Nail, is on hand with her slow-style Christmas shopping guide on Slow Travel Berlin. Here’s a quote that helps explain the philosophy behind her selection:

“Purchasing gifts from local or natural sources strengthens the local economy and plays a pivotal role in the quiet transition towards sustainable urban lifestyles.”

Natalie goes on to give tips for the best places in Berlin for vintage and second hand, kitchenware, food and drink, furniture and much more, and all with an eye on sustainable and ethical shopping. The perfect inspiration for those, like me, for whom the Christmas Markets alone are no longer enough…

Slow Travel Berlin Guide to Christmas Shopping

xmasmarket

This Sunday is the first Advent as we get ever closer to THE BEST TIME OF THE YEAR. Whoop! And here in Berlin that means that many of the Christmas Markets have, despite the fact that it is closer to the middle of November than the end, already fired up the chestnut-roaster, warmed their glühwein, laid out their handicrafted nick-nacks and opened their doors. And who cares if it is early? After all, Lidl laid out their Christmas chocolate selection when people were still swimming in the Wannsee, so the Christmas Marketiers appear restrained in comparison.

So here we go, with our very own Circus Christmas Market Guide (Cee Cee Em Gee for short) to seven spots around town where you can get into the festive spirit…

So classy there’s a cover charge… Gendarmenmarkt

Yeah, okay, you have to pay. But it is only €1 and they promise that the proceeds go to the performers. At the heart of this wonderfully atmospheric market there is a stage with a variety of shows going on throughout the day, including circus skillz, live music and other treats. Plus you can of course buy all your special Christmas markets, and the food and drink selection is particularly good. Worth a hundred cents of anyone’s money.

Open Daily, from the 21st November to the 31st December
Website
Google Maps

For all you Northern souls… Lucia Weinachtsmarkt at the Kulturbrauerei

Lucia is the Nordic goddess of light, and the Christmas market at the Kulturbrauerei is a festive celebration of all things Scandinavian. You will find it in the grounds of an old brewery that has been turned into a cultural centre, just up the hill from Rosenthaler Platz, and as well as all kinds of Nordic handicrafts and culinary delights, the market also features a daily cultural programme from 8pm as well as kid’s shows on the weekends.

Open Daily, from the 21st November to the 22nd December
Website
Google Maps

Something for the weekend… Sophienstraße

Just down the street from Rosenthaler Platz, the Sophienstraße is one of Berlin-Mitte’s most picturesque streets, and so it should be no surprise that this nice little market is a personal favourite of ours.  This is, to give it it’s full name, “The Berlin Environmental and Christmas Market”, and so you can buy your ecologically conscious members of the family plenty of right-on Chrimbo presents and the Santa, bucking the Coca-Cola-inspired trend, is wearing green and not red. There are some great shops on the street as well that are well worth checking out.

Open every Saturday and Sunday for the next four weeks
Google Maps

Cross-town traffic… Spandau Altstadt

In the west of the city you will find the proud district of Spandau and its lovely historic Old Town, and for the next month you will also find Berlin’s largest Christmas Market. At the weekend there are over 400 different stalls in operation (with over half that during the week), specials for kids and families, a historic crafts market and the intriguing-sounding “Christmas Rock Concert” (Slade, anyone?) every Friday evening. Well worth the cross-town journey.

Open daily, from 25th November to the 23rd December
Website
Google Maps

Painting the town red… Rotes Rathaus

There is a Christmas Market directly on the Alexanderplatz, but a better bet is on the other side of the train tracks and past the tv tower on the large open square in front of the Red Town Hall. There you will find a lovely big wheel with great views across the city, and ice rink around the Neptune Fountain, and the usual assortment of food, drink and craft stalls… including the chance to sip on a stone mug of hot mead in the local tavern, and party like its 1299…

Open daily from 21st November to the 26th December
Google Maps

Don’t look back in anger… Nostalgia Market at the Opernpalais

Double-dose of the nostalgia this year as not only is the market – as usual – attempting the hark back to some byegone age of ye olde xmas markets, but also to twenty years ago and the first Opernpalais market that took place not long after the fall of the wall and the reunification of Germany. This is the place to come for your small wooden handicrafts, roasted chestnuts and almonds, aromatic mulled wine and all manner of sweet treats.

Open daily from 23rd November to the 26th December
Website
Google Maps

Perfect for lazy festive Sundays… Kollwitzplatz

Kollwitzplatz is a short walk from The Circus in the neighbouring district of Prenzlauer Berg, and is already a justifiably famous market spot thanks to its organic markets on Thursdays and Sundays. On the four Advent Sundays in the run-up to Christmas it gets into the festive spirit as well, bringing Christmassy treats with an ecological twist. The neighbourhood around the square is also worth exploring, with plenty of nice cafes to warm cold toes…

Open on Sundays from the 27th November to the 18th December
Website
Google Maps

dialogueshop

A few months ago we held a Slow Travel Day at The Circus Hostel, which included a pop-up bookshop from our friends at Dialogue Books. They run a great online boutique bookshop as well as numerous literary events around the city. And now they have a new home – a bricks and mortar shop down in Kreuzberg.

It is home to an eclectic but carefully curated range of new, English-language titles. Owner/bookseller Sharmaine Lovegrove brings to her new community bookshop a decade-and-a-half worth of experience and knowledge for those that seek to have more than a book rung up at the till. This is also a place for conversation on the wide range of subjects that can be found on the shop’s shelves.

The shop specialises in books in translation and international literary, cult and new fiction. Among the stock, visitors will find a plethora of writers from the Middle East, Africa, Asia and Europe, together with native English tongues from North America, the UK, the Caribbean and Australasia.

dialogueshelf

With a deep knowledge of non-fiction, Dialogue Books has been described as ‘the place to come in Germany for French philosophy translated into English’. With a wide selection of art theory, politics, history and cookery books. Under the heading of Cultural Studies the bookshop offers a range of titles for those with an interest in themes as diverse as architecture, anthropology, cultural displacement and economy.

The new shop stocks a selection of magazine titles, too, encompassing art, literature, politics, film and music.

With monthly author readings and a Book Club, Dialogue Books provides a unique experience to accompany your reading habit — highlighting new avenues and ideas that will keep you coming back for more.

To get to the Dialogue Bookshop from The Circus, you just need to hop onto the U-Bahn at Rosenthaler Platz and take the U8 south to Schönleinstrasse. Walk around the corner and you’ll find the shop at Schönleinstrasse 31…here’s a link to googlemaps, and happy reading!

we all like cakeThe morning after…well, it was an absolutely wonderful slow day yesterday, with tours, books, cake, beer, films and talks, and I just wanted to use the opportunity to say a great big thank you from the Circus to everyone that came by, joined in the fun, and of course those who brought their energy and creativity as part of the Slow Travel Day:

Sharmaine and Thomas, the most knowledgable booksellers in town from Dialogue Books Berlin.
Everyone at the team from Context Travel for their information Walk of the Wall.
Our urban sketchers Rolf Schroeter, Olga Prudnikova and Catalina Somolinos.
There were no better cakes and sweet treats in town than those provided by Berlin Reified and FoodieInBerlin.
Stuart Holt for presenting and showing his Most Interesting Person project.
Johannes and Stephan for bringing the BIER.
Florian, who gave the assembled crowd a definate feeling of wanderlust in presenting his film Jakarta-Berlin.

And of course, to our cultural curator, Paul Sullivan from Slow Travel Berlin for all his hard work in organising the event.

You can see some more photos again, after the jump…

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dialogue booksI first discovered Dialogue Books back when they had their small store out the back of the T-Room in Prenzlauer Berg. If the mark of a good bookseller is knowing their customer, then Sharmaine (the founder of Dialogue) certainly impressed. It was over a year ago, and when we met last week to discuss the Slow Travel Day, she not only remembered me, but the book (Charlie and Lola – for my daughter) that I bought.

Nowadays they run their boutique bookshop online, as well as hosting literary events at different venues around the city. We are really excited that Sharmaine agreed to bring their pop-up bookshop to The Circus this Sunday as part of the Slow Travel Day, and I am really interested to discover which Berlin-themed books she has chosen for her specially curated collection.

What I like about Dialogue is the hand-picked nature of the selection. It is clear that every book available to buy through their online store has been carefully selected, and because they are committed to always having a limited selection, the website is as close to the idea of browsing in a bookshop as I have found in the virtual world.

Alongside the books, the Dialogue site has a number of other interesting things to discover, such as the Cultural Connections which are…

“offered for selected titles, creating a link between the book and an idea, a place, a film, a work of art or an object. Our aim is to present the books in a different, and sometimes unexpected light, promoting wider cultural exchange and discussion.”

Also interesting for Berliners is the monthly book club, whereby you can order the chosen book through Dialogue and then get together with others to discuss what you have read. Some of the books included in the book club over the past twelve months are personal favourites of mine, such as Zugzwang by Ronan Bennett, and Alone in Berlin by Hans Fallada. If you are interested in the book club, you can find out more information here, and don’t forget to sign up for the Dialogue newsletter whilst you are over there.

So Berlin’s lovers of books in the English language should certainly pop by the Circus Cafe on Sunday from 1.30pm to stock up on reading matter for once the weather truly is warm enough for long lazy afternoons in Weinbergspark, and if you want to read more about Sharmaine and Dialogue, check out this article on Slow Travel Berlin.

Christmas Market

Not long ago on the Circus blog we wrote about the Lucia Weihnachtsmarkt at the Kulturbrauerei, just up the hill from Rosenthaler Platz in Prenzlauer Berg. But there are many more Christmas Markets taking place right now throughout the city, and we thought it would be a nice idea to present you with some of our favourites.

Opernpalais Christmas Market

A very pleasant “nostalgia” market just off Unter den Linden, although when the bus tours arrive on the weekend it can get incredibly busy. To make the most of one of Berlin’s most atmospheric markets, get there early…it is never too early for a warming mug of gluhwein after all…

Open Mon-Thu (12.00-21.30), Fri-Sat (11.00-22.30) and Sun (11.00-21.30), until the 26th December
Google Maps

Christmas Market at Gendarmenmarkt

Pretty posh and you have to pay to get in…but it only costs €1 and even this small entry fee works quite well in keeping the crowds under control. An excellent choice if you want to buy some craft-type wooden presents to send home to your mum, and there is some great food on offer too.

Open daily from 11.00-22.00 until the 31st December
Google Maps

Christmas Market by the Rotes Rathaus

Standing in the shadow of the “Red Town Hall”, the Christmas Market that surrounded the Neptune Fountain is pretty standard, although there are a couple of highlights. The big wheel offers up great views over the city, and the ice rink around the fountain is the place to try out your best Torville and Dean/Wayne Gretzky/Katarina Witt/Disney on Ice* moves.

(*Delete as culturally appropriate)

Open daily until the 26th December
Google Maps

Organic Christmas Market at Kollwitzplatz

Push through the crowds of parents and their prams and you will find a nice little market up in Prenzlauer Berg, occupying one of the neighbourhoods nicest squares. Plenty of good, healthy grub to fill your belly, and lots of sustainable/fair trade/organic gifts to take back home. If you get too cold, the area around the market is packed with great cafes and restaurants to warm up in.

Open daily from 12.00-19.00, until the 19th December
Google Maps

Christmas Market on Sophienstrasse

Another “environmentally friendly” Christmas Market, this is only running on the weekends when it has the distinction of being the closest market to the Circus. Sophienstrasse is one of Berlin’s loveliest streets and there are some great shops to explore as well as the stalls themselves, which offer up some unusual and different treats to what you would normally expect on a Christmas market.

Open Saturdays (12.00-21.00) and Sundays (11.00-19.00), until the 19th December
Google Maps

Lucia Weihnachtsmarkt

(Photo: Jochen Loch / Lucia Weihnachtsmarkt)

I love Christmas, and I love Christmas Markets. It is difficult to explain why. Perhaps it is the smell of roasting chestnuts or sizzling Bratwurst. Maybe its the first sip of warm glühwein under a clear sky. It could also be the simple fact that Christmas always makes me feel young again. Anyway, the combination of twinkling lights, warming alcohol and a good sausage is enough to put a smile on my face, and thanks to an nice long advents period this year the festivities have already begun, even though December is still a week away.

One of my favourite Christmas Markets is just up the street from the Circus in the Kulturbrauerei. the Lucia Weihnachtsmarkt is celebrating their ten year anniversary in 2010, and with its atmospheric location in the courtyards of the former brewery-turned-cultural centre, it is a great place to get into the Christmas spirit. As well as the typical handicrafts and arts stalls (great for present inspiration) and different types of food and drink, the market also has some other attractions, including:

- a bungee trampoline
- merry-go-round for children and adults
- “Coat-Open-Air-Heater“ and “Swedenfire“ artworks
- Santa visits the market daily between 5 and 6 pm
- cultural program/ show daily at 8 pm, admission free

You can get to the Christmas Market either by a ten-minute walk up the hill from Rosenthaler Platz, or else jump on the Tram M1 to Eberswalder Strasse (3 stops) and walk around the corner. The Christmas Market is open from Mondays-Fridays at 3pm until 10pm, and on the weekend from 1pm until 10pm. I’ll see you at the sausage stand.

Lucia Weihnachtsmarkt website
Google Maps

Brunnenstrasse

All around the Circus and Rosenthaler Platz are some interesting streets and other places that are worth exploring. Here on the Circus blog we will be making some imaginary journeys around our neighbourhood to see what we can find…first up: Brunnenstraße.

Brunnenstraße starts at Rosenthaler Platz which, as you can see from the photo above, means that its starts right outside both the Circus hostel and hotel. It then runs north through the last few blocks of Mitte, before it crosses the Bernauer Straße and heads into Wedding. To walk from one end to the other will probably take about thirty to forty-five minutes, depending on your speed, but it also follows the U8 line so it is always possible to jump on the U-Bahn for the short journey home.

As you walk up from Rosenthaler Platz you will pass a number of different cafes, restaurants, kebab shops and other places to grab a bite to eat. I like the Japanese restaurant Aiko (no.193)  which has extremely tasty sushi and tepanyaki dishes, and the good folks are pretty friendly too. Close by there are a couple of shops worth checking out. s wert (no.191) has a mix of books, collectables, interior design articles and other stuff that basically showcases the best of their own work and other Berlin designers. You can see some of the stuff in the reception of both the hostel and the hotel, but take the time to pop down the street to have a look.

Smuckfrage (no.187) is a jewellry store with collections from different designers….now, this is not really my area of expertise, but Julia – who is sitting next to me in the office as I write this – says that their work  is “individual, unique, very tempting and not too expensive.” So what more of a recommendation do you need?

If you are walking north at some point you will pass the bottom end of the Weinbergspark (nice pond), which has a neat slope that is good for sun-bathing or sledging, depending what time of the year that you are here. And once you are past the park, you are getting close to a strip where you will find some cool bars and interesting galleries.

The King Kong Klub (no.173) is, in their own words, a “mecca for monkey business”, and is open every night from 10pm for cheap drinks, kitsch videos and “full-on trash nights”. Two galleries near here that are worth a look at the Invaliden1 (no.22) – an artist-run gallery that is a collaboration of six Berlin-bnased artists – and the ATM Gallery (no.24) – which showcases the international street art scene in a galley setting.

Now, if you were a world famous film director in town for a few months to shoot a movie, where would you head for a drink after a hard day behind (or beside) the camera? Yes, that’s right, you would choose the place that was named after you. Tarantino’s bar is at no. 163 and is apparently Quentin’s favourite watering hole in town. Who is up for a pint at Paul’s Pub? Anyone?

Not even Tarantino has the control over his performers as the fellow across the street, however. Mirakulum (no.35) is a puppet theatre that has been entertaining on Brunnenstraße since 1991, and the programme is not only for kids, as there are performances for adults as well. For some reason this makes me think of the scene in Team America, which is probably doing the folks at Mirakulum a grave disservice…

So if you have not been distracted by Berlin design, cool beers, or puppet shows, you will be reaching the corner with Bernauer Straße and the former dividing line between East and West Berlin. This is where the Berlin Wall split Brunnenstraße in two, and you can see the path of the wall in a row of cobblestones that cross the street just before the junction. To the left, and not far from the corner, is the Berlin Wall Documentation Centre, which houses an excellent exhibition on the history of the Berlin Wall and a short stretch of the fortifications preserved to give visitors an idea of what it looked like.

Across the street and into West Berlin and the district of Wedding. There is not much to see along the Brunnenstraße at this point, although you can get a sense of the contrasting architectural styles of East and West Berlin, and there are a number of galleries opening up, taking advantage of the cheap real estate in the neighbourhood.  Just past the Voltastraße U-Bahn station and you will come to the southern end of the Humboldthain park, a popular green space that rises to a hill constructed out of the rubble creating by the WWII bombing raids on the city. There is also some nice gardens, an outdoor swimming pool (in the summer) and a wartime bunker…

…which is best explored with a guide from the guys at Berlin Unterwelten (no.105). They offer underground tours (literally, as in “under the ground”) of Berlin, most of which are in the area beneath where you would now be standing if you followed the walk up the Brunnenstraße. The tours are offered in different languages, and will take you to some of the subterranean complexes beneath Berlin’s streets, many of which are inaccessible to the general public.

Just past the meeting point of the tours and the Brunnenstraße comes to an end, right in front of the Gesundbrunnen railway station (U8 to home if your feet are aching) and the large shopping centre of the same name. There is not much about the Gesundbrunnen centre that is worth noting here – it’s a shopping centre – although my daughter likes the ice cream at the cafe upstairs.

And there our exploration finishes, in amongst the happy and by-no-means stressed Saturday shoppers. I hope you enjoyed the trip.